It is only after death that the depth of the bond is
truly felt.
And our loved one becomes more a part of us than was
possible in life.
There are dozens of them - mainly women and children.
Stooping, delving with bare hands, digging with little
trowels or spoons in the loose, fertile, recently harvested
soil. Hundreds of tiny potatoes can be seen lying on the
surface, between shredded leaves and stalks. In the huge
field next to the caravan site from where most of the
scavengers hail, hundreds of tiny potatoes can be seen
lying on the surface, between shredded leaves and
stalks
But there are bigger ones, hiding below the dirt; the
survivors of the mechanical onslaught of previous days.
Like treasure, these are eagerly sought and grasped by the
hunters; organic equivalents of a Hope or Kohinoor Diamond.
A whoop of glee sounds when a kid strikes it lucky, and
eyes turn in mild envy to a child running clumsily over the
soft earth, big tattie held high as a trophy.
Most though, are content to bag the wee ones. Picking them
up and dropping them into whatever container they've
managed to conjure up. Message bags, cartons, cooking pots.
Those who've come unprepared, simply collect the spuds in
the folds of skirts and jumpers.
Lily calls over to her husband, as she holds an armful of
potatoes close to her chest, before depositing them in the
bag lying nearby.
"Robert! Will ye take a look it him ower there!"
She nods towards a gent in the distance, obviously not a
holidaymaker. He is dressed in what appears to be a suit
and tie. His opened, upturned umbrella, spike stuck into
the ground, provides a huge collecting bowl which is
rapidly filling up.
"Hiv ye evir seen anyhin lik thoan in yer life!" he
laughs.
"Gawd, eh better remember tae clean it oot well eftir eez
finished wae it, urr eez gonnae hiv a helluva dirty heid eh
nixt time it rains!" adds Moonwatcher.
The three of them laugh at the thought of this businessman,
in the company of executive colleagues, opening his brolly
in the streets of Edinburgh or London the following week,
only to be showered with Ayrshire dirt and potato leaves.
The city gent continues unabashed, ignoring the derisory
comments from of those around him.
Free Ayrshire tatties - an opportunity too good to miss.
Ayrshire potatoes, harvested at their peak, are known in
Scotland as 'New Potatoes'. Characterised by paper thin
skins, they need no peeling. A simple rub with the fingers
removes the skin to reveal the shiny white flesh beneath.
They cook easily and, with a knob of butter, taste
delicious; second to none. In season, they command high
prices in the shops. To be able to get them for nothing, is
worth the effort involved.
When two message bags have been filled, Lily calls a
halt.
"No point in bein greedy." she repeats a number of times,
as they head out of the field.
But Moonwatcher and his dad cant can't help repeatedly
bending down and to pick up 'Jist wan merr', as they
approach the gate.
The first of the potatoes have been washed and dropped into
a pot ready for tonight's dinner.
The spluttering of the water tap, and the absence of water,
signals that the container sitting outside at the back of
the van is empty, and, despite energetic pounding of the
foot pump, no more water flows. Moonwatcher resigns himself
to the fact that the Puggy needs to be refilled.
It's a chore he hates.
The large red plastic container holds a considerable volume
of water, enough to last a few days of cooking and
dish-washing. Unfortunately, with volume comes weight, and
the barrel-shaped Puggy is heavy when full. As
children, In their younger days, the same container would
be carried by Moonwatcher and his brother; both arguing,
and dropping it frequently. The scuffs and scrapes, gouged
into its red plastic, are witness to the abuse to which it
has been subjected over the years.
As he waits his turn at the water tap on the outer wall of
the shower-house, Moonwatcher feels more than a little
envious of the guy currently at the front of the queue. He
has one of those newfangled rolling containers, like a
barrel on its side, with hoola-hoops and a long pulling
handle for pulling it. He takes his time as he screws on
the metal cap; making a big deal of manoeuvring the thing
out of the concrete standing area, and past the waiting
line of water bearers with their kettles, pots, jerry cans,
or - in Moonwatcher's case - Puggy.
The nickname had always confused him. No one else used that
term. Years ago, he had asked his dad why he called it a
Puggy.
"Cos that's whit the Indians call thir watter containers -
Puggys."
And that was that; explanation over.
So Moonwatcher continued to believe that the Red Indians of
the Wild West called their water containers Puggys,
despite never hearing the term in any cowboy films, books
or the many TV Westerns of the time. And certainly, no
Conestoga wagon, rattling westbound over the prairies,
sported on its side, anything resembling the red plastic
thing now being positioned under the water tap.
He was sure that Tonto never had one. The Lone Ranger would
have remarked on it for sure.
[It would be years in the future, before he discovered
that the reference came from his dad's time in INDIA after
the war, and that it had nothing to do with native
Americans!]
The queue resigns itself to a long wait, as the the red
monster is slipped under the tap, and the slow filling
process begins. They say nothing, but the thought is going
through everyone's mind.
"How the hell is he going to carry that?"
Under normal circumstances, Moonwatcher would consider
half-filling the beast and hoping hope it wouldn't be
noticed back at the van. The Puggy was opaque, and
the water level couldn't be seen, although the premature
spluttering of the kitchen tap and subsequent drought would
be somewhat of a giveaway.
But today, knowing that all these guys are secretly willing
him to chicken out, he fills it right to the top, with the
water spilling down its sides, before he screws on the cap.
Taking a deep breath, he lifts the container by the handle
at the top. Muscles strain as it rises a mere three inches
off the ground. Smiling to his audience, he attempts to
walk smartly away with an air of nonchalance.
But Unfortunately, the bulging neck veins, congested face,
and noticeable limp give the game away. His left leg and
Puggy play out a bizarre dance that would have Jimmy
in stitches, if he could see them. Out of view sight of the
queue, he drops it to the ground and takes a breather.
Changing hands, he limps another few feet then stops again.
Soon, smirking kettle and jerry can bearers are passing
him. Another 'wheelie' guy zooms past, as if trying
to make a point.
"Ah'll bet bliddy Aquarius never hid this bliddy trouble."
Moonwatcher mutters as he struggles over the two hundred
yards back to the van.
"Is it no aboot time you guys goat a new Puggy?" he
shouts through the open rear window as he connects up the
hose; sweat dripping from his nose and muscles
aching.
"Nuthin wrang wae aht wan!" shouts back his dad.
"Bliddy heavy. How aboot wan eh them new wheelie
wans?"
Moonwatcher pushes home his argument.
"Hiv ye seen the price eh thim. Urr you buyin like?"
The argument was lost before it had begun. The Puggy
would remain until the caravan was finally sold a few years
later.
Moonwatcher checks over the bike. Stripped of baggage it
feels pleasantly light. He replaces the brake blocks, and
tightens the callipers. He checks that yesterday's puncture
repair is holding, and pumps some more air into the
tyres.
"Ah'm away furr a wee run." he calls into the van as he
mounts.
"Well dont you bae too long. Dinner's at seven." warns his
mother.
"S'okay ah'll bae back in time."
He pushes off and pedals up the hill towards the road.
The Electric Brae is taken without difficulty, the unloaded bike responding easily regardless of any optical illusion. A quick glance to the left over the caravan site below, and the distant coast beyond Culzean all the way to Girvan, before freewheeling round the bend sweeping north. Only a couple of miles are travelled before turning off the main route. He follows the narrow road which hugs the edge of the cliffs, slowing to admire the precipitous drop, before shooting downhill, past the ruined castle, into the tiny harbour village of Dunure.
The village is bustling with tourists. Unlucky timing! A
couple of tourist buses have just disgorged their contents
on to the small car park, leaving crowds of elderly, infirm
and curious to spill out in all directions. Cameras are
clicking, handbags swinging, purses being rummaged for the
change needed to buy ice-cream cones, cups of tea,
postcards and souvenirs for the grandweans. All to be
accomplished in the allotted 20 minute stopover; the fear
of being left behind ever present.
The chatter of the 'coffin dodgers', as one
irreverent local calls them, competes with that of the
seagulls.
"Naw Annie, pit that back in yer purse! You goat it the
last time, it's mah turn."
"Oh aye, in Prestwick! My, thae done a lovely scone in aht
place dinthae?"
"Netta! Wher's eh toalyits? Ah'm burstin!"
"Ther thae irr ower ther hen."
"Oh aye! Ah see thim."
"Haud oan! Ah'm comin iz well!"
"How diz iss cemra wurk?"
"Iz thir a spool innit?"
"Ah need tae get a postcerd fur Wullie, wher's eh
shoap?"
"How long hiv wae goat Maggie?"
"Werzi castle?"
Moonwatcher secures the bike to a convenient lamp post, and
squeezes through a group of old biddies arguing about
whether to walk around the harbour, or go up to the
castle.
The dark entrance of 'The Dunure Anchorage' beckons,
and he dives into the cool, welcoming hostelry, like a fox
going to ground. He's on his second pint, the first having
slaked his thirst within minutes of being poured, before he
ventures cautiously to the door. It's quietened down now;
the masses having migrated to selected points of interest
or, pictures taken and shops visited, have returned to the
buses. He strolls out into the hot sunshine, sipping his
beer and casually making for a low wall near the quayside.
Placing his glass on the rough stone surface. he sits down
on the wall and watches the small fishing boats, as they go
about their business in the small harbour.
Dunure is not as old as it seems. It was built in the early
19th century, as a safe harbour for fishing boats. Only the
ruined castle can claims any serious heritage.
Sitting close to the village on a grassy promontory, its
shattered tower is the most prominent feature that remains.
Originally the birthplace and stronghold of the Kennedys,
once the most powerful family in the south west, a sign now
warns people to keep away because of its dangerous
condition.
Today, the surrounding grass is covered with the blankets
and deckchairs of sunbathers and picnickers. From his
vantage place on the wall, Moonwatcher observes them as
they devour chicken legs with relish.
He wonders how many of them are aware, that it was within
the 'Black Vault' of this building, that the
'Commendator' of Crossraguel Abbey was once roasted
before an open fire ,in an effort to force him to sign away
the title of the Abbey lands. Ayrshire's historical
novelist, S. R. Crockett, included the scene in his novel
'The Grey Man'. It was the title character from
Crockett's book, that inspired Davie Bell, and his band, to
name the face in the rock 'The Grey Man of the
Merrick'. This train of thought draws him on to his own
quest. He finishes his beer, and mounts the saddle.
As he swings into the caravan site, a quick look at his
watch shows 6.50pm. The aroma of mince and tatties
tantalises his nostrils, even before he steps in the
door.
"Good. Yer back. Wurr aw waitin oan ye. Get yer hauns
washed and sit doon." Lily orders.
They sit down to plates heaped with steaming mince, soaked
in thick gravy, accompanied by mounds of the potatoes
gathered earlier in the day; all accompanied by fat green
peas. Plates are cleared and swabbed with bread to soak up
the gravy. To round off the meal, bowls of ice-cream and
fruit appear.
"My, lass, that was braw." says Jimmy, as he leans back,
and undoes the top button of his trousers, letting out a
loud sigh as he does so.
Jimmy is sitting outside watching the sun sink into the
sea, puffing contentedly on his pipe, when Moonwatcher
unfolds a deckchair and sits down beside them him.
"Uncle, wid ye dae meh a favour?" he asks hesitantly.
"Ye kin only ask son. If ah kin help, ah wull." he
responds, without taking his eyes off the scene before
him.
"Ye see, ah boat this pipe."
Moonwatcher holds out his previous day's purchase.
"An ah wiz wundrin iff ye wid show meh how tae smoke
it?"
He expects a laugh and a dose of ridicule, but instead
Jimmy, straight faced and serious, takes the pipe and
examines it for a few moments; turning it in his hand,
running his fingers over the smooth wooden bowl.
"Nice pipe." he says finally. "An whit's made ye decide tae
try the pipe smokin?"
"Well... Ah've been thinkin aboot it furr a while ah
suppose, jist tae try it like. Wher ah'm gaun's reckoned
tae bae really bad furr midges, an sumdy telt meh thit pipe
smoke wiz the best thing tae keep thim it bay."
Now Jimmy laughs.
"Aht might bae right son. Midges certainly hivnae evir
boathirt me! Hiv ye goat baccy ther?"
"Aye ah've goat this." producing the pack from his
pocket.
"Ready Rubbed. Aye, aht's a good stert. Burns a bit fast
furr mah likin, bit good furr sumdy lik yersell jist
stertin oot. Ah prefer the block massell."
Jimmy digs out his pouch, and takes from it, a tiny green
pack about the size of a couple of Oxo cubes.
"Aye ah've noticed you use that." acknowledges
Moonwatcher.
He watches as his uncle empties the bowl of his pipe and
returns it to his mouth. Talking between his teeth, Jimmy
explains ...
"Ah'm gonnae use a bit aff this bar, aht means ah've goat
tae rub it. Yours is already rubbe,d so ye don't need tae
dae that. Watch."
Bringing out a well worn penknife from the pouch, he cuts
off a tiny piece of the black tobacco from the compressed
block, and rubs it vigorously between his palms until, like
magic, it fluffs up into the recognisable fibrous
consistency of baccy.
"Right noo, open yir pack" he instructs his nephew.
Moonwatcher does so.
"Noo dip yer pipe intae it, an stert tae fill the bowl wae
yer finger."
There's much fumbling as the younger man tries to follows
instructions.
"Don't fill it too much, jist aboot a third. It's a new
pipe an ye want tae break it in. It's important thit ye get
the boatim eh it well burnt, afore ye stert smokin it wae a
full bowl. An don't pack it too tight urr ye'll hiv sore
cheeks fae tryin tae sook through it."
Once Moonwatcher has loaded the bowl, Jimmy quickly and
skillfully loads his.
"Okay, noo wurr ready tae light up. Watch me furst."
Using a lighter, he fans the top of the pipe, igniting the
tobacco and sending plumes of blue smoke into the evening
air. He stops, tamps down the scorched baccy and lights
again. Taking a couple of draws, he puffs the smoke from
the side of his mouth before removing the pipe, and looking
at Moonwatcher.
"Right! your turn."
He hands him the lighter.
The first attempt ends in a life threatening convulsion of
coughing, wheezing and wet eyes.
"Aye, Ah furgoat tae mention son, don't inhale." says a
chuckling Jimmy.
"Pipe smokin isnae like smokin cigarettes. Jist sook an
blaw. Sook an blaw." he demonstrates, with the confidence
of a lifetime of 'sookin an blawin'.
A few minutes pass before Moonwatcher has recovered
sufficiently to try again, but, by the time Lily emerges
from the door of the caravan, both of them are sookin,
blawin and puffin away like a couple of Hobbits in the
Shire.
"Whit the...!"
Lily, rarely speechless, now has difficulty finding her
words.
"Robert! Come an see this perr. Ah've never ..."
"Whit the hell urr ye daein smokin a pipe?" Robert asks of
his son.
"An whit urr you daein encouragin im?" Lily launches at
Jimmy.
"Aw steady oan lass, eh boay's auld enough tae make up eez
ain mind.
An anyway, he asked mae tae show im. An anither hing - wurr
dain yeez a favour."
Jimmy gives Moonwatcher a sly wink as he puffs on.
"Daein us a favour? How the hell urr yeez daein us a favour
bae pollutin eh site wae smoke?" she says, screwing up her
face in puzzlement.
"Cos wurr keepin eh midges away lass! Aht's how."
"Eh? Bit thirs nae midges!"
Jimmy goes for the kill.
"Exactly lass, exactly. Ah rest mah case!"
He roars with laughter, as his niece purses her lips and
shakes her head, annoyed at being caught out so
easily.
"Smokin aht stuff's no gonnae dae yer health any good."
Moonwatcher's dad says in comeback.
Before his son can reply, Jimmy is in again.
"Damn sight better than thae cigarettes you smoke."
"Tell meh." he says, removing the pipe from his mouth and
looking the man straight in the eye.
"Why iz it ye usually only ever see auld men smokin pipes,
hiv ye ever thoat aboot aht, eh?"
Silence.
Lily and Robert retreat into the caravan. Jimmy replaces
the pipe in his mouth and folds his arms in triumph.
"Aht told em! Smoke yer pipe in peace son. Don't let em pit
ye aff."
The two men sit puffing. Watching the sun go down over the
Firth.
The lights are out. Moonwatcher lies in the dark on the
single bed that has served as a seat during the day. Across
from him, over the space which, until an hour ago, was
occupied by the table with its Ludo board, nibbles, beer
and laughter, Jimmy lies puffing quietly with his pipe. In
the darkness, Moonwatcher can see the intermittent orange
glow from the bowl, accompanied by a soft puffing sound
from the old man's lips.
"Ah jist need a few puffs at night." he had said, before
the gas mantle was put out.
After a few minutes, the pipe is retired retires to an
ashtray sitting atop a Zane Grey paperback novel on the
floor. Jimmy turns over and all is silent.
Moonwatcher loves it here, and feels a pang of regret to be moving on come morning.
He lifts himself on onto one elbow and peers through the
curtain into the night. The site is bathed in a silvery
glow. He looks up at the sky, and sees the moon shining
down on him.
His thoughts return to this same place, same bed, on a
night, four years previously in the summer of 1969. He had
lain in the darkness, tiny plastic earpiece in place,
listening to the crackling, broken voices of two men
treading a dusty landscape, a quarter of a million miles
away. While the rest of the world sat transfixed to
television sets, Moonwatcher lay on this bed, in the dark,
transistor radio strategically placed for best reception;
following every word of Armstrong and Aldrin as they made
history at Tranquillity Base.
Since then he would always consider this place his Tranquillity Base.
Original story and material © 2005 Bob Wilson
Layout, editing and additional material © Dave Sloan
2005, 2012, 2016
'tachras' and 'Winding Yarn' © Dave Sloan 2005, 2012,
2016